first step - gotta scub all the tubes and the dropouts to remove oil and contaminants that would interfere with joining.
happy tubes!
here's the seat tube and the custom sleeve before brazing. one of the holes is for the slot that the seatpost clamp closes to hold the post in place, the other two are vent holes for the double toptubes.
here, the seattube sleeve is silver brazed in place and tacked to the bottom bracket shell and i'm checking to make sure that the assembly is straight. this will be the spine of the frame, so i want to make sure that it's straight, strong, and good to go.
front triangle all tacked up except for the "kicker tube", the second lower toptube. i'm waiting until tomorrow to fit it, it's a finicky fit and i was sorta looped out from doing all of sam's braze-ons this morning and then powering out this afterwards. looking good!got going on j. reddan's 29er cruiser and it's coming right along - i hope it continues throughout the build! i'm just dropping a quick post, i'll have more as it progresses and becomes more cruiser-like. it's going to be a beauty, and it will be off to live in illinois.........steve.
4 comments:
Looks sweet, Steve.
Question: when you silver braze the seat tube sleeve, does it ever move around on you when you heat it all up higher to brass braze the seat stays or top tube? Or is there enough surface area inside that sleeve so that not all the silver re-melts?
jesse - the sleeve is long enogh and i keep my HAZ smallenough when doing the brass fillet that the silver doesn't re-melt. it's good to go. also, you could probally run the sleeve held on by the distortion from the brass fillet alone! the silver just keeps the inside of the sleeve sealed to avoid oxidation. steve.
Hi Steve.
Another question for ya: What sizes of tubing do you use for the seat post tube and sleeve? Something I could get from Aircraft Spruce maybe?
JasonA
hey, jason: it's 1.25" x .058 4130 sleeve and a true temper single butted .9/.6 seat tube. call me, i'll set you up! steve.
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